4H and loud clunk

LocalSparky

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I noticed last night while turning into my neighborhood that I’m getting a loud bang/clunk sound from what sounds like driver side front. We had some snow so I was in 4H when this occurred. I was making a left turn at a normal speed. I had music playing (18 speaker system) and I heard it over that! I turned the music down and then made another left, I heard it again but not as loud. Then today I’m doing some testing to see if I notice anything. In 2H, silence. No sounds at any speed or turns but as soon as I switch to 4H I notice Some weird sounds from the front, almost like a sticking rotor...metal on metal type noise. Then like clock work, turn left and accelerate slightly, clunk! I also noticed in 4H that I get the clunk when I brake somewhat harder (did that for testing). So basically, in left turns only, and sometimes under harder acceleration (around 2,000rpms)/braking. Taking it in Monday.
This happened to me today as well. Interested to see what the dealership says. It clunked until i stopped the truck at a red light and never returned.





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Bradr03

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This happened to me today as well. Interested to see what the dealership says. It clunked until i stopped the truck at a red light and never returned.
I’m at the dealership now, the advisor checked codes and says basically everyday since I’ve owned my truck, it has thrown a low voltage code. He doesn’t know for sure if that would cause my issues but confirmed that something is not right. I should have more information next week.
 

Bryan Simon

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I’m at the dealership now, the advisor checked codes and says basically everyday since I’ve owned my truck, it has thrown a low voltage code. He doesn’t know for sure if that would cause my issues but confirmed that something is not right. I should have more information next week.
I looked at another 4x4 post that had a diagram of front end related parts.
Also some pictures of the related parts.

Low battery voltage can certainly affect the coils that operate the engagement locks.
If the coils are designed for 12-14 volts, and voltage drops, weird things can happen.

A “Better Idea” would have been to use/design a coil with a wider range, say 6-14vdc.
At least that way, if you have an electrical/charging issue while off road, you have a chance to get back before losing front end drive capabilities
 

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The vacuum operated IWE system would also make horrible sounds while malfunctioning.

Unless there are worn driveline or suspension parts, a binding 4x4 drivetrain is relatively quiet until you’re in a parking lot and the tires start slipping.
 
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Bradr03

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Update*

They have not found the issue yet. Looks like they’ll have it in the shop longer than I had it home.
 

Roger350

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Update*

They have not found the issue yet. Looks like they’ll have it in the shop longer than I had it home.
Were they at least able to replicate the sounds, or is this going to be one of those, sorry we didn't witness the issue, bring it back the next time it happens, type things? Good Luck with the diagnosis / repair.
 
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Bradr03

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Were they at least able to replicate the sounds, or is this going to be one of those, sorry we didn't witness the issue, bring it back the next time it happens, type things? Good Luck with the diagnosis / repair.
the immediately heard the issue. BUT decided last week to check the rear diff....for an issue that only occurs in 4H....of course, rear checked fine. Today I got a call that they are replacing the transfer case, as that’s where the noise is coming from. They suspect that the magnets that engage the front axles are not engaging/disengaging correctly. Parts order and should be picking the truck up Wednesday.

side note: Ford has got to do a better job getting customers into loaners/rentals. I traded in my Rubicon and I tell you guys, Jeep has it figured out. I assumed a $70,000, one week old F150 that already has issues would get a loaner without question. I was wrong.
 

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They suspect that the magnets that engage the front axles are not engaging/disengaging correctly. Parts order and should be picking the truck up Wednesday.

side note: Ford has got to do a better job getting customers into loaners/rentals. I traded in my Rubicon and I tell you guys, Jeep has it figured out. I assumed a $70,000, one week old F150 that already has issues would get a loaner without question. I was wrong.
If the magnets aren’t engaging properly, of course there’s going to be noise in the TC
(Can also destroy the TC in short order)
(Had electrical issue in my k1500 that rapidly engaged and disengaged the TC—sounded like a wheel bearing going out—til 4x4 quit and TC was toast—finding a manual trans TC for my truck was not an easy task)

However, they had best be looking into those coils that engage the front. May have a weak connection or low voltage going down there.
Is your battery staying up? Weak battery or charging system can do the same.

As far as car rental—I am getting the extended warrantee with first day and enhanced rental. Too damn far to walk home and no busses go where electricity is scarce.

Edit. I mistyped about the electrical issue and TC
It was an electrical issue engaging the front differential and therefore slamming the transfer case on and off
 
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Roger350

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side note: Ford has got to do a better job getting customers into loaners/rentals. I traded in my Rubicon and I tell you guys, Jeep has it figured out. I assumed a $70,000, one week old F150 that already has issues would get a loaner without question. I was wrong.
Please tell me they gave some kind of loaner truck? I can understand not having another $70k 2021 model for you to drive, but there should have been something with similar truck capabilities with less frills extended to you as a loaner?
 
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Bradr03

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If the magnets aren’t engaging properly, of course there’s going to be noise in the TC
(Can also destroy the TC in short order)
(Had electrical issue in my k1500 that rapidly engaged and disengaged the TC—sounded like a wheel bearing going out—til 4x4 quit and TC was toast—finding a manual trans TC for my truck was not an easy task)

However, they had best be looking into those coils that engage the front. May have a weak connection or low voltage going down there.
Is your battery staying up? Weak battery or charging system can do the same.

As far as car rental—I am getting the extended warrantee with first day and enhanced rental. Too damn far to walk home and no busses go where electricity is scarce.

Edit. I mistyped about the electrical issue and TC
It was an electrical issue engaging the front differential and therefore slamming the transfer case on and off
Initially I was told I had low voltage readings but they retracted that statement because every vehicle they had in was showing the same codes so they suspect it was an issue on there computers. Idk. They are replacing the transfer case so I assume all the components will be new and should eliminate this issue.

Please tell me they gave some kind of loaner truck? I can understand not having another $70k 2021 model for you to drive, but there should have been something with similar truck capabilities with less frills extended to you as a loaner?
I did get a loaner, a Ford Explorer but not because of the issues I had with my truck, but because I already had an appointment for the undercoating to be done. I was asked if I wanted to pick the truck up this weekend and then bring it back, but if I did that they couldn’t guarantee me a loaner. Which is ridiculous after spending so much money. I hate how I’m starting to regret this purchase. After being so excited.
 

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This happened to me today as well. Interested to see what the dealership says. It clunked until i stopped the truck at a red light and never returned.
I had the same think happen to me yesterday. Snowy conditions.
 
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Bradr03

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I pick up my truck tomorrow. As of now the dealer said the noise is 100% gone. They replaced my transfer case and checked the rear diff, which was in spec. Long two weeks
 

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Hopefully that was the issue, I would have wanted to see the old T-case and see if I could replicate the sound.

The voltage issue, if there is/isn’t one should be easily troubleshooted with a multi-meter. Hopefully, there are procedures in place for the new IWEs, though, I wouldn’t bet on it.

If it’s the 4a transfer case that you have, there are clutches in it that, though they should be bypassed in 4h, it’s possible that someone assembled the thing wrong or forgot a critical part.

Some shops will have a set of microphones which come in a kit, that you can mount to different parts of the vehicle to diagnose suspension and drivetrain noises. If it wasn’t something obvious or couldn’t be duplicated on the lift, it really a useful tool when there’s so much soundproofing in these new cars and nothing’s really connected to the cab anymore.

Good luck with your truck and hopefully there will be some more snow to verify the fix in!
 

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