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12Lariat21

12Lariat21

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Ran some more test with some power resistors.

10.2 ohms = 1100 watts @ 108.5 Volts 10.4 Amps
6.1 ohms = 1900 watts @ 105 Volts 17.4 Amps seemed to be able to maintain this load, only ran for 4 minutes due to the power resistors getting hot. (images associated with this test)

5.9 ohms = 2000 - 1900 watts @ 104 Volts 17.8-17.9 Amps the inverter tried to power this, but it would fault out on overload after about 5 seconds.

Ford F-150 2kW Pro Power with EcoBoost F150_1900W load


Ford F-150 2kW Pro Power with EcoBoost F150_1900W
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Ran some more test with some power resistors.

10.2 ohms = 1100 watts @ 108.5 Volts 10.4 Amps
6.1 ohms = 1900 watts @ 105 Volts 17.4 Amps seemed to be able to maintain this load, only ran for 4 minutes due to the power resistors getting hot. (images associated with this test)

5.9 ohms = 2000 - 1900 watts @ 104 Volts 17.8-17.9 Amps the inverter tried to power this, but it would fault out on overload after about 5 seconds.

F150_1900W load.jpg


F150_1900W.jpg
Loads are rated at 80% continuous just like a house breaker most likely
 
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Loads are rated at 80% continuous just like a house breaker most likely
Oh I would totally understand that, and most if not all generator/inverter manufacturers advertise their output as peak, and they list the continuous usage. Ford on the other hand, has seen fit to advertise it at 2kW, 20A at 120V...no less

So it's more a disappointment in their handling/marketing of it.

And honestly it's a pretty crappy inverter to drop 16v at load, for the $995 MSRP they charge for it.
 
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To me it's kind of like Dyno numbers.
For me that's what they are. Numbers.

I just want to be satisfied with how the truck performs on the road. In fact, I'll give some of the numbers back in trade for a more polished or refined experience.

In respect to ProPower Onboard, I purchased the Powerboost to power my RV as if I was on shore power. It passed that test with flying colors. I don't know how much headroom was left, by the numbers, but I'm happy. Especially considering it accomplished the task using one bank. That would indicate that I am free to upgrade to a 50A RV in the future. Although in my opinion, the kind of 50A RV that I would buy isn't a tow option for the Powerboost. (yet more numbers. In this case, Cargo Capacity lol)
 

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Oh I would totally understand that, and most if not all generator/inverter manufacturers advertise their output as peak, and they list the continuous usage. Ford on the other hand, has seen fit to advertise it at 2kW, 20A at 120V...no less

So it's more a disappointment in their handling/marketing of it.

And honestly it's a pretty crappy inverter to drop 16v at load, for the $995 MSRP they charge for it.
I bet with more RPM's the voltage will be higher. You have to leave some head room so you don't have to high a voltage when going down the road.

The DC voltage of the alternator will fluctuate.
 

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It would be nice if Ford listed the continuous and peak numbers for ProPower. I'm guessing that whatever is listed is actually the peak based on what some have posted, and run wattage is less. I haven't tested mine like you have, but the voltages you're seeing would be concerning to me.
 
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Oh I would totally understand that, and most if not all generator/inverter manufacturers advertise their output as peak, and they list the continuous usage. Ford on the other hand, has seen fit to advertise it at 2kW, 20A at 120V...no less

So it's more a disappointment in their handling/marketing of it.

And honestly it's a pretty crappy inverter to drop 16v at load, for the $995 MSRP they charge for it.
I'm a little late to the party here, but have been dealing with the same issue on my new Tremor. Using my RVs GoPower 2000W inverter-charger's 30Amp connector and a 30A-to-15A dogbone connected to my 2kW ProPower's "120V/20A" outlet, I can run my RV's Dometic Penguin II to which I added a Micro-Air Easy Start ... but to make this work, I have to set the GoPower inverter-charger remote to draw no more than 9amps shorepower. And while that's not enough to full run the AC from the Pro Power (actually only draws about 950-1000Watts from propower), it draws the additionally needed power from the RV's LiFePO4 battery bank. Anything higher than 9amps for the shore power draw setting causes the inverter-charger to briefly fault. And once the compressor kicks in, I can increase the shore power setting up to about 15-16 amps before tripping the ProPower breaker as it reaches the ProPower inverter's wattage limit. But I can't figure out what the issue is at that 9 to 10 amp limit that causes the system to freak out, except perhaps the voltage drop you measured at higher wattage/current. To your point, disappointing that Ford continues - even more than 2 years after your experiment and comments - to market ProPower with solid concrete numbers.
 
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12Lariat21

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I'm a little late to the party here, but have been dealing with the same issue on my new Tremor. Using my RVs GoPower 2000W inverter-charger's 30Amp connector and a 30A-to-15A dogbone connected to my 2kW ProPower's "120V/20A" outlet, I can run my RV's Dometic Penguin II to which I added a Micro-Air Easy Start ... but to make this work, I have to set the GoPower inverter-charger remote to draw no more than 9amps shorepower. And while that's not enough to full run the AC from the Pro Power (actually only draws about 950-1000Watts from propower), it draws the additionally needed power from the RV's LiFePO4 battery bank. Anything higher than 9amps for the shore power draw setting causes the inverter-charger to briefly fault. And once the compressor kicks in, I can increase the shore power setting up to about 15-16 amps before tripping the ProPower breaker as it reaches the ProPower inverter's wattage limit. But I can't figure out what the issue is at that 9 to 10 amp limit that causes the system to freak out, except perhaps the voltage drop you measured at higher wattage/current. To your point, disappointing that Ford continues - even more than 2 years after your experiment and comments - to market ProPower with solid concrete numbers.
Yeah it's a pretty sad inverter they are using. It's either the voltage drop, or crappy sign wave. I can only assume at about 9amps is where it all starts going down hill. Ok at running resistive loads (toaster, hot plate) not so much when dealing with electronics or motors...
 
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Out of shear boredom and curiosity, I decided to pull the covers off all the 2kW pro power setup on my truck this weekend. Attached are the photos for those curious. The inverter is actually a 24v DC to 120 AC inverter, and uses 2 of the smallest little 12v batteries I've seen to feed it...defiantly part of the reason the system is a sub-performer, not a whole lot of power to supply, so any load is going to drag it down quick. I'd like to get extremely bored and hook it up to a couple of real 12v batteries and see how/if it improves its performance any....but that is a lot of messing around I'm not sure I want to tackle

Ford F-150 2kW Pro Power with EcoBoost IMG_1515.JPG


Ford F-150 2kW Pro Power with EcoBoost IMG_1518.JPG


Ford F-150 2kW Pro Power with EcoBoost IMG_1519.JPG


Ford F-150 2kW Pro Power with EcoBoost IMG_1520.JPG


Ford F-150 2kW Pro Power with EcoBoost IMG_1521.JPG


Ford F-150 2kW Pro Power with EcoBoost IMG_1522.JPG


Ford F-150 2kW Pro Power with EcoBoost IMG_1523.JPG
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