21 XLT wiring upgrade to power fold/extend tow mirrors.

[tt57]

So I have a 21 XLT and I’ve always wanted to have power fold/extend tow mirrors. I know I have to switch over to the Ford tow mirrors w/ part # ending in “DA”. After looking at the wiring schematic online & using my electronics degree knowledge I think I have a figured out a wiring diagram to get them working. So here is what the connections should be (see picture). Just need to then go into Forscan and get the modules set up correctly. If this all works out should be able to keep this job under $2K. I will update when and if this all pans out

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[Tlusk7]

How did this go? I don’t understand your pin out of the switch. Where did you get the plug for the extend switch?

 

[tt57]

How did this go? I don’t understand your pin out of the switch. Where did you get the plug for the extend switch?

Connector/plug for switch
Other connectors I used and wiring came from this kit.

That plug for the switch above needs to be filed down just a bit then it will lock in just fine. That other link is for all the correct gauged wiring you will need and the connectors you will need. You will have to pull the individual wires out of the connector with a release tool to get the wires out and insert them into the connectors already in the door as they will snap right in. You will need to also do some soldering and heat shrink. If you you are good with wiring schematics I would go to Ford and download the 3 days subscription for $30 to get the wiring diagram. I don't want to post them on here for possible copyright legal issues. Its been about 6 months and mirrors are still working just fine.

 

[Tlusk7]

I’m good with wiring schematics as I’m an electrician, do you have a link to that 3 day subscription spot? I’ll gladly do that as I need the schematics for all of the 360 cam information as well that I’m wanting to do. If you could also link the release tool you used that would be awesome. I don’t need the adapter harnesses as I already have a lariat 502a that had power mirrors, I’m just adding power telescoping which should be two wires? I was looking at your wiring pin outs and you mention a junction for the switch? Can you elaborate on that?

 

[Tlusk7]

Connector/plug for switch
Other connectors I used and wiring came from this kit.

That plug for the switch above needs to be filed down just a bit then it will lock in just fine. That other link is for all the correct gauged wiring you will need and the connectors you will need. You will have to pull the individual wires out of the connector with a release tool to get the wires out and insert them into the connectors already in the door as they will snap right in. You will need to also do some soldering and heat shrink. If you you are good with wiring schematics I would go to Ford and download the 3 days subscription for $30 to get the wiring diagram. I don't want to post them on here for possible copyright legal issues. Its been about 6 months and mirrors are still working just fine.

I sent you a message

 

[tt57]

I’m good with wiring schematics as I’m an electrician, do you have a link to that 3 day subscription spot? I’ll gladly do that as I need the schematics for all of the 360 cam information as well that I’m wanting to do. If you could also link the release tool you used that would be awesome. I don’t need the adapter harnesses as I already have a lariat 502a that had power mirrors, I’m just adding power telescoping which should be two wires? I was looking at your wiring pin outs and you mention a junction for the switch? Can you elaborate on that?

looks like it was $22 + tax for service manual
just look for "terminal removal key tools" in search engine. You get about 60 or more keys. Just use the ones you need.
There is one wire you need to junction with a wire that your going to keep using. I cut and soldered/heat shrinked it in rather than using one of those blue splice connectors that oxidizes and falls apart over time. Look at the schematics if you purchase it, as it is pretty easy to figure out what wire it is.

 

[Tlusk7]

looks like it was $22 + tax for service manual
just look for "terminal removal key tools" in search engine. You get about 60 or more keys. Just use the ones you need.
There is one wire you need to junction with a wire that your going to keep using. I cut and soldered/heat shrinked it in rather than using one of those blue splice connectors that oxidizes and falls apart over time. Look at the schematics if you purchase it, as it is pretty easy to figure out what wire it is.

Where did you get the terminal pins for the PDM and DDM connectors? I have the terminal part and service numbers but can’t find them online. Buying the connector to take them out is crazy in price.

 

[tt57]

Where did you get the terminal pins for the PDM and DDM connectors? I have the terminal part and service numbers but can’t find them online. Buying the connector to take them out is crazy in price.

Where did you get the terminal pins for the PDM and DDM connectors? I have the terminal part and service numbers but can’t find them online. Buying the connector to take them out is crazy in price.

you remove the terminals out of the connectors in that wiring kit that I linked on Ebay (that is what you need that terminal removal tool(s) for). After you pull all the terminals out of the connectors. Then cut the wires in half. Now you have 2 terminals with about 5” of wire on each side you cut. After pulling them out they clip right into the PDM & DDM connector. Then solder/heat shrink, to size, the 5” of wire to however long you need with the extra wire they give you in that Ebay kit. Like I said it’s been about 6 months now and don’t remember everything exactly. I do remember it is a rats nest of wires in there ( after doing this) that I need to go in and clean up, some day, when it warms up again.

 

[Tlusk7]

you remove the terminals out of the connectors in that wiring kit that I linked on Ebay (that is what you need that terminal removal tool(s) for). After you pull all the terminals out of the connectors. Then cut the wires in half. Now you have 2 terminals with about 5” of wire on each side you cut. After pulling them out they clip right into the PDM & DDM connector. Then solder/heat shrink, to size, the 5” of wire to however long you need with the extra wire they give you in that Ebay kit. Like I said it’s been about 6 months now and don’t remember everything exactly. I do remember it is a rats nest of wires in there ( after doing this) that I need to go in and clean up, some day, when it warms up again.

Ok I’m following now. You just used those terminal pins on all 4 connectors (mirrors and modules) and then you used the wire it comes with to splice it all together. I was wanting to order factory terminal pins but can’t seem to find the exact ones in .64mm. They are even cheap from factory if you just buy the pins with jumpers. I did find the factory extend switch plug for $43 and I won’t have to sand down the one you sent. I’m real anal about this stuff and I want it all to be as legit and factory as possible

 

[BernieG]

Hoping you guys can help me get my power fold/extend mirrors working on my 21' F-150. My truck came with the standard mirrors (not towing), plus camera and BLIS. I purchased Ford's power fold/extend tow mirrors, and a power fold harness from Boosted GreyGoose. How can I hook up the power extend feature (I have the correct interior trim piece with the button installed)?

 

[Tlusk7]

Hoping you guys can help me get my power fold/extend mirrors working on my 21' F-150. My truck came with the standard mirrors (not towing), plus camera and BLIS. I purchased Ford's power fold/extend tow mirrors, and a power fold harness from Boosted GreyGoose. How can I hook up the power extend feature (I have the correct interior trim piece with the button installed)?

https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/11euWezAGDvbDUOy3ULOqrcslmjehWs_O

Take a look at my file share and see if it answers your questions. I built my own harness as greygoose was out of stock and it was much cheaper so I do not know how greygoose has his configured, but all schematics are here on this drive. Depending on your truck trim, you may have a DDM and PDM that the wiring for each mirror and the switch will go to.

 

[HammaMan]

I bought a platinum's door wiring harness and just took all of the appropriate wires and moved them over to mine. I added both memory, folding, and telescoping functionality. Memory requires the locking button and trim plate. Slide and fold require 4 wires in total (per mirror), if adding memory it needs + 3 wires and a different connector for the driver's locking button. This is the reason I just bought the door harness as it had all of the parts ready for immediate swap over.

Now that it's complete, I now have several spare connectors and pre-terminated wires for other 'projects'. As for 'pin removal tools' -- just take a paper clip and flatten the end of it it a little bit. Come in from the back side, insert it until you feel it getting pinched by the plastic retention nub, give the PC a slight twist and the wire connector slides right out. Takes maybe 5 seconds per connector at most?

ml3z14631h is the driver door wiring harness ($140) -- you can replace the entire harness if you want and then use your 'old' harnesses wires to jump everything in the passenger door. Again my go-to connector removal tools are paper clips. For precise 'smashing' I used my large wire connector crimping tool. (a better choice of door harness for part scavenging would be a lariat w/ folding mirrors but no 360 cams, if such exists -- but I'd have to bug one of those w/ access to the dealer parts catalog after finding the vin of such a truck to get the exact harness part number)

My paper clip tools (I have 20 different wire / connector tools, I've found the paper clips to be the best though) -- A quick drag across a 120 grit sand paper creates the chisel point / tips.

Loads of remaining parts / wires / connectors

 

[BernieG]

Progress Report:

I installed my power fold/extend tow mirrors yesterday. Installed the Boosted Greygoose folding mirror upgrade wiring harness (which is an extremely well-made and easy-to-install product, BTW), ran the Forscan updates, which were included in the installation instruction from Boosted Greygoose, and I am happy to report everything worked flawlessly. Now I need to dive into the wiring information Tyler shared with me and order the correct plug to fit on the extend/retract switch, and I'll also have power extending mirrors.

 

[HammaMan]

Progress Report:

I installed my power fold/extend tow mirrors yesterday. Installed the Boosted Greygoose folding mirror upgrade wiring harness (which is an extremely well-made and easy-to-install product, BTW), ran the Forscan updates, which were included in the installation instruction from Boosted Greygoose, and I am happy to report everything worked flawlessly. Now I need to dive into the wiring information Tyler shared with me and order the correct plug to fit on the extend/retract switch, and I'll also have power extending mirrors.

I have a plug for the telescoping button you can get from me as I just bought a platinum's harness for my conversion.

 

[Tlusk7]

I bought a platinum's door wiring harness and just took all of the appropriate wires and moved them over to mine. I added both memory, folding, and telescoping functionality. Memory requires the locking button and trim plate. Slide and fold require 4 wires in total (per mirror), if adding memory it needs + 3 wires and a different connector for the driver's locking button. This is the reason I just bought the door harness as it had all of the parts ready for immediate swap over.

Now that it's complete, I now have several spare connectors and pre-terminated wires for other 'projects'. As for 'pin removal tools' -- just take a paper clip and flatten the end of it it a little bit. Come in from the back side, insert it until you feel it getting pinched by the plastic retention nub, give the PC a slight twist and the wire connector slides right out. Takes maybe 5 seconds per connector at most?

ml3z14631h is the driver door wiring harness ($140) -- you can replace the entire harness if you want and then use your 'old' harnesses wires to jump everything in the passenger door. Again my go-to connector removal tools are paper clips. For precise 'smashing' I used my large wire connector crimping tool. (a better choice of door harness for part scavenging would be a lariat w/ folding mirrors but no 360 cams, if such exists -- but I'd have to bug one of those w/ access to the dealer parts catalog after finding the vin of such a truck to get the exact harness part number)

My paper clip tools (I have 20 different wire / connector tools, I've found the paper clips to be the best though) -- A quick drag across a 120 grit sand paper creates the chisel point / tips.

Loads of remaining parts / wires / connectors

Looking back the time I spent building a harness for each door it would have been worth it to buy a harness I’m sure, but I only needed power extend. I have a lariat with power fold but no 360. I can give you the vin, but you won’t find one with power fold and power telescope with no 360 because the tow mirrors with fold come with 360. When looking for tow mirrors for my truck they did not make power fold without camera, dealer claimed they found that option and when they tried them, they did not work.

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