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2023 Powerboost “stop safely now” no start

Snakebitten

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I'd wait to see if your (and hers) lifestyle is even problematic. And since you now know how to measure whether it is or not, you will know if it's necessary to impose on her habits. :)

I hope nothing I've ever posted has led anyone to think the battery on the F150 can't withstand a few unintentional "awakenings" without leaving you stranded. It's not THAT fragile. Or if you found that it is, that's just a sign of a battery that needs to be retired!
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nickm291

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I'm going to give them the opportunity to diagnose and correct, but if the conclusion is "can't replicate problem" I'm 100% going to be putting in in a much beefier battery to deal with any potential low voltage issue on the 12V side of things. As much as it pains be to put a new $400 battery into a truck that was almost $100K new 6 short weeks ago!. My truck has a production date of Feb 2023 and I picked it up a month later, so I don't think age of vehicle or battery is the issue. This might be a case where it should possibly be a dual battery setup with a house battery and dedicated start/stop version (but I'm not sure this would help given the charging strategy snakebitten mentions above ). There are a lot of draws when approaching the vehicle with the key fob ie: lights on, running boards come out, you can hear the systems ready for startup. I keep mine parked in the garage so no remote start or similar issues but I do walk by it a number of times between starts and can see where this constant electrical draw can kill off the battery. I might also get a faraday cage for the key fob in case there might be some ready stage that they key fob in the house is causing.

On the high voltage side of things, The theory I've got is the start up strategy goes high voltage electric first (probably for start up emissions numbers) and they may be over aggressive on the reluctance to start the engine on startup, theory being perhaps when you stop running the vehicle with the high voltage system drawn down to some minimum amount, it'll refuse to start due to not enough HV power and start up strategy refusing to start the gas motor. I know the day before mine had exhibited this the route ended up being a lot of electric only miles (ie 35 out of 100 mile tour) and the last 2-3 miles coming into my house are almost always electric (mostly mild downhill, 25 mph zone). so perhaps the HV system being low caused it to fault out. This would assume start up strategy isn't fully sorted yet, or they are just way too aggressive on electric startup only. I'm assuming that just like every other modern vehicle that startup logic is different than run logic. Just a guess but curious to know opinions on this!
 

Snakebitten

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If you are intent on giving the truck the most favorable start up advantage possible, in regards to the high voltage side, it's as easy as.......

When you arrive somewhere that the truck will be parked several hours, before you turn off the truck and exit, put it in Park and then tap the throttle.
ICE will light and run for the amount of seconds necessary to top off the Hybrid battery.
Once ICE shuts off, then shut the truck down and exit.

This affords the truck an opportunity to have the maximum high voltage source of "12V charging current" the next time you get in the truck.

If you are monitoring Hybrid battery pids, you will see that when ICE turned off and you shut the truck down, your Hybrid battery was ~63% SOC.

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nickm291

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so similar concept to the turbo timers we would have used back in the 80s/90s :).

Snakebitten - I may have missed it but how do you get to this display?
 

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bushpilot

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bushpilot

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Just my opinion, but if it's an injured battery, even consistent use can't bring it to a robust state.....

I nurse my 12V battery on my Powerboost by putting it through a full charge cycle anytime I see it deteriorating down in the 12.2-12.3V range a couple of days in a row.
I completely agree w/ the "injured" battery....while you sometimes can get them "back" to a decent charge level they generally wont hold the charge or tend to become depleted faster (after theyve been "injured")!


@Snakebitten - as you know, I'm in the habit of keeping my vehicle charged when parked (at home) via battery maintainers.

I've assumed that keeping the truck on the maintainer that its keeping the primary (starter) battery up to snuff but now I'm wondering...will the connection to the battery maintainer/charger also charge the small (keep alive) battery behind the seat? Will the presence of the battery maintainer also charge the Hybrid/Electric batteries UNDER the truck?
 

Snakebitten

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If you are trickle charging the AGM under the hood, you are charging the auxiliary battery under the seat simultaneously because they are NOT isolated from each other in the Powerboost.

But the Hybrid Battery is completely isolated from the 12V AGM. At least the way you are asking.

Technically, there's a DC/DC converter between the two voltage systems that would prohibit your 12V charger's current from getting through.
 

HammaMan

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(text wall removed)
It's not a wake up thing (see my LFP thread regarding various tasks and their energy consumption).

The issue from data I've seen and others have corroborated is really just poor logic on the trucks part. 14v is a safe voltage for AGMs to float at, especially when they're not even charged. The problem is that the truck will sometimes straight consume the 12v battery in an engine-on state. Other times it will have 12v+ (when it's making the 12v instead of eating batts) but only be in 13-13.7v present when the battery isn't even charged. This is just poor logic on their part.

They use 80% as the max charge point -- on a battery chemistry where 50% SOC is basically dead. Even then the numbers don't line up as I've ascertained just how much energy each of the events that someone could do to the truck would consume. A regularly driven truck where the owner performs tasks that'd use about 3ah shouldn't be facing a sleeping module issue. There's just no excuse for it. There's no excuse for the poor logic observed on 12+ voltage state.

In the good old days you had an alternator that put out 14.4v and the lessor tech FLAs would give you 5 years or so if you regularly drove the vehicle. The halogen headlights alone would use more energy than all of the modern systems combined would. The issue is shitty logic that has no place in being there in this form. On thursday I had a truck w/ enough charge to activate greeting lighting. I remote started it from the keyfob and let it expire. 1hr later I opened the door and the remote start had completely consumed the AGM batts to the point where interior lighting wouldn't even work. That is how dumb the programming is.
 

Davexxxx

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I remote started it from the keyfob and let it expire. 1hr later I opened the door and the remote start had completely consumed the AGM batts to the point where interior lighting wouldn't even work. That is how dumb the programming is.
This isn't the first I've read of fob remote start interfering with charging. It doesn't make sense. It also doesn't seem like something an OTA couldn't fix.
 

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TruckGuy2023

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This isn't the first I've read of fob remote start interfering with charging. It doesn't make sense. It also doesn't seem like something an OTA couldn't fix.
The day I got my "stop safely now" warning and no start, I had tried to remote start with the key fob several times as I walked up to the truck. I had considered that the remote start attempts had contributed to the no start, maybe draining down the battery as suggested above. I had problems getting remote start to work on my keyfob previously as well. Remote start has worked on the app (except for the no start incident).
 

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My turn under the gun. All I wanted to do was pull the truck up next to the garage to put on the bed/tailgate seal. NOPE. "Stop Safely Now!" WTF, I'm not moving! Or even running! And the truck has been on a charger for the last 72 hours, and I have started the habit of always goosing the throttle while in Park at the end of the day to top off the hybrid. None of that was enough. No error codes, and the trick of quickly switching to Sport Mode didn't work. But it started fine remotely via the Ford app. I move in front of the garage, put it in Park, and the engine has already started. It ran for about eight minutes before it finally shut down. I can tolerate a lot of weirdness (hey, I work I.T., sort of my job) but I expect the truck to at least start when I need it.
 

Schulz314

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Guess I’m joining this thread as well. Have had my 2023 Lariat PB for three weeks and have had a no start and stop safely now incident happen twice in the last few days. Engine has less that 1,300 miles on it and I have no idea what is causing it. The first time I was able to start it normally after 20 or so minutes and tonight it happened again. This time I was able to use the app to start it after around 45 minutes. I cannot believe that an $80,000 truck is having issues of ANY kind and it seems like this is not an isolated event given the comments out there. The whole reason I got a new truck was for the reliability….
 

Snakebitten

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Statistically speaking, the $80,000 vehicle is more likely to have issues than the $30,000 vehicle.

I imagine your truck has MORE than 40 modules onboard.
The $30,000 vehicle might have as little as 7 modules.

So much software, harnesses, connectors....... It's amazing everything actually works sometimes. 🤣
 

Old Bear

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Statistically speaking, the $80,000 vehicle is more likely to have issues than the $30,000 vehicle.

I imagine your truck has MORE than 40 modules onboard.
The $30,000 vehicle might have as little as 7 modules.

So much software, harnesses, connectors....... It's amazing everything actually works sometimes. 🤣
I get that. Similar to computers. I built my first one in 1980, with a soldering iron. Back then you really "built" it. I am amazed at how dependable new ones are, knowing everything that is going on "behind the screen." If something goes stupid on my computer, worst case, I can start that computer in "safe mode" for basic functions and help figure out what is wrong.

Hey Ford, how about one more module that simply disables everything else and simply starts the truck with ICE and can move? Emergencies do happen, and this would allow things like getting the truck out of harm's way? Gee, my garage has caught on fire, let me move my $80k truck out! NOPE, "Stop Safely Now" is on the screen, so I get to test my insurance out. So many things I can think of where just being able to move it would be so important.
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