2023 Ford F150 Platinum B&O Unleashed (the leash broke) - System Upgrade - Here We Go Again!

[Sonnie]

I won't be using it, but I should be able to check the resistance.

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[Snakebitten]

Which brings up the obvious question.
What do you guys think you would lose by just unplugging it?

Sometimes I wonder if my brain is fooled and just thinks what it is hearing is the center speaker.

 

[Zyvin]

Which brings up the obvious question.
What do you guys think you would lose by just unplugging it?

Sometimes I wonder if my brain is fooled and just thinks what it is hearing is the center speaker.

It’s loud, lol. I have to cheat the fader toward the rear to calm it down. I think the center along with the right and left dash speakers reflecting off the windshield is a bit much.

I swore I wouldn’t change this stereo though, lol. It would be my first factory system since ‘86.

 

[Sonnie]

I swore I wouldn’t change this stereo though, lol. It would be my first factory system since ‘86.

I said something similar and I buckled in weakness.

Which brings up the obvious question.
What do you guys think you would lose by just unplugging it?

Sometimes I wonder if my brain is fooled and just thinks what it is hearing is the center speaker.

It might be worth trying. I prefer the ambience of the surround. If you turn off surround, that may turn off the center... I have not paid it that much attention in stereo mode.

 

[HammaMan]

It is a lot of work, which is why I said I was going to stop. Doing this every couple of years is a bit much and I'm getting to that age where it takes longer to do everything.

LOL, have had the PB torn apart for 2 weeks now....

 

[Sonnie]

LOL, have had the PB torn apart for 2 weeks now....

I see... you are really trying to punish me by reminding me it may take me 2-3 weeks to get this done. I can't back down now cause Jon done took my money and shipped product. I'm stuck doing it now... no turning back.

You know from 20-40 nothing really slowed down. 40-50 only a little slower. 50-60 make up for all of it and slowed to about half speed. I'm seriously concerned what 60-70 is going to do.

 

[Spiffy]

I was going to start a new thread about a new system I'm planning on doing. I have pretty much decided what I'm going to do. Plan is to start buying or setting up my local sound shop to start.
I'm going to use the
(1) Pac Audio ap4-fd31 interface
(2) JL audio vx800/8i (LR tweets, Center, LR fronts, L rear doors) 8th not used
The JL audio vxi have a really good tunable DSP that will do time, phase, xover, levels with the use of the max array microphone system that my dealer has. He is one of the only one in five states certified . I have intensive researched the turning aspect.
(3) MTI Acoustic half length behind seat enclosure. 10" JL audio TW3-D4 sub and JL JD500/1 amp.
I really don't want to install this my self but if I did then my first choice would be .
The same pac audio interface into minidsp with dirac then into the listed amps and speaks.
I have extensive experience with dirac live two channel and its totally awesome but my installer does not.
My current system is the unleashed so I have available speakers not being used. My dealer wants to add an additional jl 6 channel amp to pick up the headrest and dash and headliner speakers. I'm not sure that the additional 1k amp and speakers will do much.
I have questions.
1. the tweeters and rear door speakers are coming from the headunit. How does the pac audio connect to gain control of these?
2. If I put the center dash speaker in the equation how best to utilize it?
Be sum of left right? Or is it only for truck info data? The vxi dsp software can have several sound curves. I can tune for center stage and alignment for drivers seat, and passenger seat then using their DRC-205 remote controler quickly switch sound stage to passengers curve.
3. Is there any reason to try to utilize all 13 cab speaker plus sub or will I still get the great sound stage with only the pillar tweets, front door mids, rear doors fill and sub? Will adding any of the others help or just complicate accurate tuning?
Ultimately I am looking for precise sound quality. Base has to be fast, accurate and time aligned with the rest of the system.
Underseat enclosure is out of the question. I would go with a bigger 13 sub but I'm not looking for spl.
My home sub is ported 10" matched to planular speakers controlled by dirac live with base management system. The miniDSP/DL appears not to have any kind of specific base management algorithm and it's nearly 900.00.
I'm pretty much done selecting my amps and sub and A2B converter
I'm on the fence with the dsp solution.
If I go with the mini dsp then I can go with a less expensive amp without built in dsp. If I stay with the vxi from jl audio I get supported tuning. Really it's once and done as speakers in cars don't move around like home speaker and furniture locations do. Only thing that needs retuning would require is if I change any factory speakers.

 

[Vw64guy]

I can speak for the 2023 Unleashed. Having bought the most loaded Platinum 150 I could build, this being my first Ford and first Truck, I was super excited. Even if I didn't get features I wanted (supply chain BS). Absolutely love my truck!! Super smooth ride, great features and comfort. I'm a truck guy moving forward. As for the B&O Unleashed, it's extremely disappointing! You get 18 speakers and hear the bass in the back and one center speaker in the front. Center is beyond over powering, it's a disaster! You can't even hear the other speakers. They give you no means to adjust. Fading to the rear is like putting a wet blanket over the entire experience. I'm driving a loaner XLT right now and I would trade stereos in a heartbeat!! It might sound great with the right reference material, but for the other 99.99% of media, it's a major bomb. My only hope, a software update addresses this obvious issue.

I'll be watching this thread for sure. Thanks for your efforts and for sharing.

As for anyone on the fence about the unleashed system. Know that is sucks, big time!

I'm gonna have to agree. This thread got me real interested in the realm of possible when it comes to aftermarket car stereo and I think Sonnie is on the bleeding edge. 100% agree the center front is way over gain versus the sides. and my headrest speakers contribute more white noise static than music. Furthermore, the white noise is constant even with the stereo off. I don't think a software patch is going to fix that. I'm tempted to hide a kill switch under the seat to deactivate them.

 

[sippy2]

Which brings up the obvious question.
What do you guys think you would lose by just unplugging it?

Sometimes I wonder if my brain is fooled and just thinks what it is hearing is the center speaker.

I actualy did this by mistake when I was upgrading all my frt speakers. Much improved...but keep in mind I upgraded all the speakers. Its easy to do....takes maybe 5 minutes. Pry the cover off...(2) 7mm bolts on speaker...unplug and put back together. Woth a try if you dislike the heavy ceneter.

 

[HammaMan]

I was going to start a new thread about a new system I'm planning on doing. I have pretty much decided what I'm going to do. Plan is to start buying or setting up my local sound shop to start.
I'm going to use the
(1) Pac Audio ap4-fd31 interface
(2) JL audio vx800/8i (LR tweets, Center, LR fronts, L rear doors) 8th not used
The JL audio vxi have a really good tunable DSP that will do time, phase, xover, levels with the use of the max array microphone system that my dealer has. He is one of the only one in five states certified . I have intensive researched the turning aspect.
(3) MTI Acoustic half length behind seat enclosure. 10" JL audio TW3-D4 sub and JL JD500/1 amp.
I really don't want to install this my self but if I did then my first choice would be .
The same pac audio interface into minidsp with dirac then into the listed amps and speaks.
I have extensive experience with dirac live two channel and its totally awesome but my installer does not.
My current system is the unleashed so I have available speakers not being used. My dealer wants to add an additional jl 6 channel amp to pick up the headrest and dash and headliner speakers. I'm not sure that the additional 1k amp and speakers will do much.
I have questions.
1. the tweeters and rear door speakers are coming from the headunit. How does the pac audio connect to gain control of these?
2. If I put the center dash speaker in the equation how best to utilize it?
Be sum of left right? Or is it only for truck info data? The vxi dsp software can have several sound curves. I can tune for center stage and alignment for drivers seat, and passenger seat then using their DRC-205 remote controler quickly switch sound stage to passengers curve.
3. Is there any reason to try to utilize all 13 cab speaker plus sub or will I still get the great sound stage with only the pillar tweets, front door mids, rear doors fill and sub? Will adding any of the others help or just complicate accurate tuning?
Ultimately I am looking for precise sound quality. Base has to be fast, accurate and time aligned with the rest of the system.
Underseat enclosure is out of the question. I would go with a bigger 13 sub but I'm not looking for spl.
My home sub is ported 10" matched to planular speakers controlled by dirac live with base management system. The miniDSP/DL appears not to have any kind of specific base management algorithm and it's nearly 900.00.
I'm pretty much done selecting my amps and sub and A2B converter
I'm on the fence with the dsp solution.
If I go with the mini dsp then I can go with a less expensive amp without built in dsp. If I stay with the vxi from jl audio I get supported tuning. Really it's once and done as speakers in cars don't move around like home speaker and furniture locations do. Only thing that needs retuning would require is if I change any factory speakers.

Pac comes w/ all of the taps for all speakers. The fronts are at the front head unit for tapping if you're not running wires (still have to run wires to the harness at the head unit - installers usually have multi-run cables like 9 in 1). You can make it work w/ 8 channel ditching center. Depending on speakers consider running headrests combined w/ rear tweets - 3 speakers 1 channel. These are light fill and not really part of the stage. Deleting may be best.

Some use the digital tap to just have 2 speakers, I'm using all 6 from the pac so I can still maintain control of balance / fade, plus only piping the phone audio to the driver's speakers. No need to have phone / tones on the other channels / bass.

I did the dynamat myself as it's too easy to cut corners on the inside of the doors. It was a pain in the ass to reach down in there cleaning and applying properly. I went with over 50% coverage inside the doors as well as used polyurethane glue to reinforce areas of the factory glue I didn't like. Also used some low-rate expanding foam in some areas (special care taken around where the door pins push in so that there's ZERO panel stand-off --- too many shops would halfass it and have a panel gap on the door panel). I prefer to fill hollow voids with it for additional structure / tone. I also added additional foam to areas as well as secured the door ECMs better. I did the driver door first testing inside and out looking for both rattles and sources of noise escaping. Between outer door panels, inner door panels, and back of door plastics, the application was perfect. The blue is the lighter stuff, used primarily on door plastics. Heavy stuff for the outer door skins is a must. Inner was just a mix of stuff. Various pics

Also looking at adding ambient to the doors. I've got new ice blue LED strips 1/3 brightness of these. These blues were overkill but I had on hand when testing.

Most dynamat performance is achieved w/ only 1/3 coverage. Some go way overkill, and arguably mine is overkill. I've found the exterior rearview mirrors to be the single biggest source of sound 'leakage' at this point (as in music on, listening outside of truck). Listening for sound leakage outside of cab is a good way to pinpoint weak spots in noise intrusion as it works both ways.

 

[Zyvin]

I was going to start a new thread about a new system I'm planning on doing. I have pretty much decided what I'm going to do. Plan is to start buying or setting up my local sound shop to start.
I'm going to use the
(1) Pac Audio ap4-fd31 interface
(2) JL audio vx800/8i (LR tweets, Center, LR fronts, L rear doors) 8th not used
The JL audio vxi have a really good tunable DSP that will do time, phase, xover, levels with the use of the max array microphone system that my dealer has. He is one of the only one in five states certified . I have intensive researched the turning aspect.
(3) MTI Acoustic half length behind seat enclosure. 10" JL audio TW3-D4 sub and JL JD500/1 amp.
I really don't want to install this my self but if I did then my first choice would be .
The same pac audio interface into minidsp with dirac then into the listed amps and speaks.
I have extensive experience with dirac live two channel and its totally awesome but my installer does not.
My current system is the unleashed so I have available speakers not being used. My dealer wants to add an additional jl 6 channel amp to pick up the headrest and dash and headliner speakers. I'm not sure that the additional 1k amp and speakers will do much.
I have questions.
1. the tweeters and rear door speakers are coming from the headunit. How does the pac audio connect to gain control of these?
2. If I put the center dash speaker in the equation how best to utilize it?
Be sum of left right? Or is it only for truck info data? The vxi dsp software can have several sound curves. I can tune for center stage and alignment for drivers seat, and passenger seat then using their DRC-205 remote controler quickly switch sound stage to passengers curve.
3. Is there any reason to try to utilize all 13 cab speaker plus sub or will I still get the great sound stage with only the pillar tweets, front door mids, rear doors fill and sub? Will adding any of the others help or just complicate accurate tuning?
Ultimately I am looking for precise sound quality. Base has to be fast, accurate and time aligned with the rest of the system.
Underseat enclosure is out of the question. I would go with a bigger 13 sub but I'm not looking for spl.
My home sub is ported 10" matched to planular speakers controlled by dirac live with base management system. The miniDSP/DL appears not to have any kind of specific base management algorithm and it's nearly 900.00.
I'm pretty much done selecting my amps and sub and A2B converter
I'm on the fence with the dsp solution.
If I go with the mini dsp then I can go with a less expensive amp without built in dsp. If I stay with the vxi from jl audio I get supported tuning. Really it's once and done as speakers in cars don't move around like home speaker and furniture locations do. Only thing that needs retuning would require is if I change any factory speakers.

I loved my vxi amp in my last truck. Very easy to set up and use. I also liked to simple bass knob controller that could store different curves without having some lcd screen etc.

 

[HammaMan]

Some pics from my AMP steps install as well....

These are older pics, the unit is in the rear of the truck as the motors are at the back of the boards to clear the coolant pipes of the powerboost coolant lines w/ out interfering / rubbing

 

[ARegularJoe]

Seems like a lot of work for a truck that you will only have for 18 -24 months. But I guess you only live once.

Actually I am quite pleased with the standard 7 speaker stock system. We have or had 4 cars with Bose systems and the standard seems on par with those. But many don’t like Bose systems, I do.

I read on this forum from several that think the xlt B&O upgrade is not worth the money so glad I didn’t not spend the extra money.

Good luck with your project.

Oh… Forscan is fairly easy, I am 62, and figured it out to add deleted Xm back. Biggest thing is knowing what to change and what to change it to.

@Wallyo can you share how you added back in the xm delete?

 

[Wallyo]

@Wallyo can you share how you added back in the xm delete?

Have a look over here a lot of info which many have contributed to. I stopped at the Xm some are trying to get the nav back. That portion is not completely solved yet.

https://www.f150gen14.com/forum/threads/my22-adding-siriusxm.14798/page-14#post-318819

 

[clipperqb]

I can speak for the 2023 Unleashed. Having bought the most loaded Platinum 150 I could build, this being my first Ford and first Truck, I was super excited. Even if I didn't get features I wanted (supply chain BS). Absolutely love my truck!! Super smooth ride, great features and comfort. I'm a truck guy moving forward. As for the B&O Unleashed, it's extremely disappointing! You get 18 speakers and hear the bass in the back and one center speaker in the front. Center is beyond over powering, it's a disaster! You can't even hear the other speakers. They give you no means to adjust. Fading to the rear is like putting a wet blanket over the entire experience. I'm driving a loaner XLT right now and I would trade stereos in a heartbeat!! It might sound great with the right reference material, but for the other 99.99% of media, it's a major bomb. My only hope, a software update addresses this obvious issue.

I'll be watching this thread for sure. Thanks for your efforts and for sharing.

As for anyone on the fence about the unleashed system. Know that is sucks, big time!

Bear in mind I don't have the unleashed version but I simply removed (and threw in garbage) the center speaker. Big improvement.

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