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JJSnell

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You can say what you want about internals and such, But if you use the wrong fuel, Your going to have a bad time.

( Tech guy tearing down engine on 2nd video said it was wrong fuel that caused the failure.)
And then theres that...
Lots of puzzle pieces to make those things run at top performance and last...
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Pedaldude

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I saw a lot to comment about in the video but the part that astounded me was starting up and driving the truck into the bay knowing the engine was blown. High pressure fuel is no joke and it doesn’t take much to pierce one of those hard lines with a sharp piece of errant metal. I’ve seen cars carbs catch fire from just a backfire. Gasoline at however many PSI and the right air fuel mixture under the hood mixed with however many quarts of oil is left won’t be easy to extinguish and it’s totally unnecessary when you have enough people to help push. Also who knows if the connecting rod would bust through the block and send aluminum shrapnel flying. There’s CCTV footage of just that scenario and a kid gets a golden BB right in the jugular and died on the spot. The aluminum fenders on the new trucks are thin enough to open with the can opener on a Swiss Army Knife; they’re concealment, not cover!

Then there’s all the crap getting blown up into the heat exchanger and the cavalier comment about just cleaning it up and that nothing got into the blower is pretty suspect. It’s an expensive part to toss or rebuild and inspect but I’m not super confident all that schmoo from the annihilated piston is going to be completely cleaned out with some brake clean and compressed air in his dirty shop.

Also, was anyone else frustrated by him walking six feet back and forth to place parts on the rolling cart that he could have just rolled next to the engine and saved considerable time? Then there’s the moment that he removed the fuel line and takes a deep huff like the kid in class with the rubber cement or sharpie 😂 Though it could have been for show and views!

Speculation is relatively useless unless real time black box telemetry was available (and even the it’s iffy) there’s really only wild ass guessing over what caused the failure. So much can go wrong and even with a 2021+ NA Coyote V8; the static compression is so high that an engine can lunch a piston from just a hiccup in the ECM/PCM causing a loss of spark or fuel at high RPM/throttle. Adding boost just takes you closer to the likelihood of instant catastrophic failure.

Hopefully the new engine won’t share the same fate as the old one but I’d be really skeptical about reusing many parts and I’d look over everything with a fine tooth comb before throwing another engine at this truck.

In another thread people were talking about the catalytic converter back pressure and the blown engines not playing well with them. Another variable to consider, though it’s absence in the newest iteration won’t prove/disprove anything.

Full disclosure: I lived during the big 80’s turbo craze and put many miles on carbureted and mechanically injected single turbo cars without anything exploding but I knew people who did have to rebuild their engines multiple times and it seemed like one of those things where if you had problems, you would have more problems. So my wariness is deep seated and I trust complicated computerized systems even less as there’s more to go wrong and randomly.

All that being said, it’s nice to see the hot rodding spirit alive and well!

I watched the vid at 2X and here’s some screenshots of the damage for those without the time/inclination or bandwidth to watch:

The hole of despair:
Ford F-150 2022 F-150 Blown 5.0L Coyote Engine Complete Teardown Video 4A315260-32CF-46BC-BF1E-A1565B8A32F2

The sad head:
Ford F-150 2022 F-150 Blown 5.0L Coyote Engine Complete Teardown Video 59DFDA9D-F9A2-4A31-9105-9E28DD124E0B

Bottom end aluminum schmoo:
Ford F-150 2022 F-150 Blown 5.0L Coyote Engine Complete Teardown Video 2A4E8ACA-1004-4F1B-8C55-E71CA8EF5375

The half moon shaped clip is a portion of the piston ring:
Ford F-150 2022 F-150 Blown 5.0L Coyote Engine Complete Teardown Video 8537A01D-ED56-4B14-9F14-0314372E7F81

The clogged up oil pickup:
Ford F-150 2022 F-150 Blown 5.0L Coyote Engine Complete Teardown Video B042977E-EA8E-4367-A2C1-56266F8E2FA3
 

Babbage

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Amazes me the money spent on things like this.... done wrong. Ford Racing and other companies sell everything from shortblocks to complete engines for this kinda stuff.
Throwing an SC or blower on an a stock engine is just asking for trouble. Intake and exhaust ports need to handle the flow being pushed, the valves of course have to handle that as well. Spinning a standard crank, cams and bla bla with stock pushrods and pistons at thousands of boosted RPMs, just not gonna last.


I am posting this because if you want your truck to be a Ferrari, PLEASE order a race engine with internals that can handle what you throw at it... otherwise it will end up like this truck and other blown up trucks we have see posted here.
Nice to know you could drop this crate engine in:
M-6007-M52SC - $29,000 ;)
https://performanceparts.ford.com/part/M-6007-M52SC

Ford Performance all-new 5.2L Supercharged intercooled engine from the 2020+ GT500. Factory rated at 760 hp and 625 ft-lbs of torque (premium fuel required).
Eaton TVS R2650 Supercharger
High strength aluminum block with plasma transferred wire arc spray weld cylinder liners
94mm bore
93mm stroke
9.5 to 1 compression
Forged steel crankshaft and connecting rods
Grafal coated forged aluminum pistons

Dry weight w/o FEAD components: 536 lbs.

Ford F-150 2022 F-150 Blown 5.0L Coyote Engine Complete Teardown Video M-6007-M52SC
 

Je1279

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Guy is definitely not a fan of Fumoto drain values. Online reviews are overwhelmingly positive. My guess is a remnant of what was once the piston clogged the valve. Anyone else ever experience this issue?
 
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JJSnell

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I'm really skeptical about reusing many parts and I’d look over everything with a fine tooth comb before throwing another engine at this truck.
Seriously, when I heard him say, "If the blocks okay I'm gonna sleeve it."
I just about threw up. Then he said he wondered if the water pump was the same for Expeditions because he needed one?!

This guy Frankensteins used parts for his repairs\builds??? I'd never use him.
 

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WhiteLightningnshitshadow

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Seriously, when I heard him say, "If the blocks okay I'm gonna sleeve it."
I just about threw up. Then he said he wondered if the water pump was the same for Expeditions because he needed one?!

This guy Frankensteins used parts for his repairs\builds??? I'd never use him.
Shit like this isn't uncommon on refurbs from what I've seen. Id pay the difference for new.

That's some malice in the combustion palace lmao.
 

TexasTruck

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Anyone else ever experience this issue?
Which issue? The blown engine, the plugged Fumoto valve or both :giggle:
Online reviews are overwhelmingly positive.
While I don't have one on my 5.0, I've used them on several engines for years without failure. I always compare the amount of oil drained out just to make sure the difference is not drastic.

It's like you said, with all the loose material in the oil pan something blocked the flow through the Fumoto valve.
 
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TexasTruck

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Seriously, when I heard him say, "If the blocks okay I'm gonna sleeve it."
I just about threw up
I got the impression he was joking around.... Christmas Vacation.... "Clark, I'd like to try to fumigate this here chair, it's a good quality item"
 

TexasTruck

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9.5 to 1 compression
That is interesting! The compression in our F-150 5.0 Gen 3/4 is 12.0:1. I wonder how that comes into play in a supercharged application?
 
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JJSnell

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I got the impression he was joking around.... Christmas Vacation.... "Clark, I'd like to try to fumigate this here chair, it's a good quality item"
He may have been joking I will listen again, maybe I missed it

But listening to him point out the oil still on the frame of the truck after he dropped the engine and body back onto the frame I wonder why in the world he didn't wash that oil off?
Couple that with driving the truck into the shop it just seems unprofessional all the way around....
 
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TexasTruck

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But listening to him point out the oil still on the frame of the truck after he dropped the engine and body back onto the frame I wonder why in the world he didn't wash that oil off?
Couple that with driving the truck into the shop it just seems unprofessional all the way around....
Yeah, I caught that, to much Macgyver's Garage for me. That and even thinking about reusing the heat exchanger; one little pin hole and the engine is ingesting coolant. Whipple pressure tests the heat exchanger, I'm sure it wasn't retested before reinstalling it.
 
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Pedaldude

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That is interesting! The compression in our F-150 5.0 Gen 3/4 is 12.0:1. I wonder how that comes into play in a supercharged application?
The lower static compression is key to taking advantage of the additional boost. It used to be crazy to think of boosting anything with over 10:1 static compression. 12:1 is nuts for even an NA street car but it’s possible with high speed processing of the real time engine data. These engines are already close to their limits naturally aspirated.

Nice to know you could drop this crate engine in:
Ford F-150 2022 F-150 Blown 5.0L Coyote Engine Complete Teardown Video F3014D78-6AB7-4893-ADD7-8602D449B0D4

Ford F-150 2022 F-150 Blown 5.0L Coyote Engine Complete Teardown Video 574E5C31-D003-4AA3-96BF-560A1A697409
Ford F-150 2022 F-150 Blown 5.0L Coyote Engine Complete Teardown Video 4CEBAC54-5927-4D61-910A-9C2D750F9C2F


Street prices are a little less and by selling the take out motor to a Fox or Panther body owner; you can get back $5-6K; even have the buyer road test the motor in the running truck and help remove the engine. You’re $8.5K ahead because it’s already a factory blower engine.

You’re paying $12.5K more than just the blower before labor and tuning. For that extra money you get a factory performance engine with lower static compression, an extra scooter’s worth of displacement and forged pistons; which is a veritable bargain!

It’s more than twice the cost of just supercharging the stock motor and it’s a little bit more involved but it’s cheaper than doing the job twice and still needing a new engine after a thousand miles 😎

Seriously, when I heard him say, "If the blocks okay I'm gonna sleeve it."
I just about threw up.
For a drag motor meant for track use; I could see it after putting it through its paces in a test bay after fixing it on his own spare time. For a customer car on the street it’s a totally different story and it’s reckless to put a car on the road with a “maybe it will, maybe it won’t” mentality. Think of the engine dying late at night and stranding the driver on a highway around a blind curve, or the block letting go and spewing 6 quarts of oil on an overpass at rush hour.

The block can be properly prepped for reuse but it’s so cheap to get a short block from the factory that it’s really not worth the rigamarole. Even something like regrinding the crank which was super common is kind of a losing proposal when you can get a factory forged crank for $500 already machined and balanced. Balancing the crank alone is $300-500 at a good shop with magnafluxing before/after $100-200 and that’s not even including grinding/polishing the crank journals. That crank is junk and only a good candidate for a standing ashtray when Ford is churning them out in a factory.

Ford F-150 2022 F-150 Blown 5.0L Coyote Engine Complete Teardown Video F1EE22EF-BA07-440F-AF21-F736B28FB5DE


this isn't uncommon on refurbs from what I've seen. Id pay the difference for new
Exactly; prices for parts and even crate engines are so low relative to labor charges; that it’s not worth the risk/reward.

Back in the day when you could get away with rebuilding engines at a gas station by a teenager and they’d last just as long as factory because the tolerances are so low; I could see rolling the dice. Even then NDT like magnafluxing existed and even then, forces weren’t the same as now. You could get away with sketchy shit like welding a cracked rod like one of those tractor repair Youtube channels from India where they stick weld on the dirt using their sandals instead of vises. Oil passages were generous and some of the old engines didn’t even have a pressurized oil system.

It might be worth dicking around for YouTube views and see how long it takes before it blows up again.
 

JExpedition07

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For N/A you want higher compression for peak performance, 12:1 is more efficient and complete combustion than say a 10:1. That means more power, more torque, and more efficiency for the newer gen 5.0’s vs older. The PFDI dual fuel injection (specifically the direct injection portion) allows the 12:1 ratio on pump gas for the 5.0L. It is 90% DI loading at higher revs.
 
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JJSnell

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The block can be properly prepped for reuse but it’s so cheap to get a short block from the factory that it’s really not worth the rigamarole.
+1

Back in the day when you could get away with rebuilding engines at a gas station by a teenager and they’d last just as long as factory because the tolerances are so low...
You made me dig out a pic of my very first engine, I built. I had a '66 Springtime Yellow Mustang but the engine was blown. So at 15yrs old I went to Fatlans Wrecking Yard, bought this block, heads and crank and built this, literally out of a Chiltons manual. No internet or Youtube help in 1985.

Ford F-150 2022 F-150 Blown 5.0L Coyote Engine Complete Teardown Video 1707673291579
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