2021 F150 Lariat 502A bumper removal

[jrhoops]

I watched mr_boom5.0 youtube video, he had the grille out but stated in the comments it's not required. I looked under the front end and can see 2 nuts on each side but can't figured how to to get to the other 2 that are more centered. Also, not sure how the bolts come out or are they attached to the bumper permanently/? Any advice or pictures would be appreciated, I am attempting to add a couple washers as a bit of a spacer for the bumper.

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[Doyouevenboost]

I watched mr_boom5.0 youtube video, he had the grille out but stated in the comments it's not required. I looked under the front end and can see 2 nuts on each side but can't figured how to to get to the other 2 that are more centered. Also, not sure how the bolts come out or are they attached to the bumper permanently/? Any advice or pictures would be appreciated, I am attempting to add a couple washers as a bit of a spacer for the bumper.

Grill 100% has to come out, i had my bumper off yesterday.

i have a 502a ecoboost so disregard some of the connections if it doesnt relate to you.



NOTE: Removal steps in this procedure may contain installation details.

1. Remove the push pin retainers, position aside the air intake duct, and remove the air deflector.

1. NOTE: If equipped.
   Disconnect the electrical connectors and washer hose.

1. Raise the vehicle on a hoist.
   Refer to: Jacking and Lifting - Overview (100-02 Jacking and Lifting, Description and Operation).

1. On both sides.
   Remove the 2 screws.
   Torque: 15 lb.in (1.7 Nm)

1. 
   Remove the front bumper upper cover trim panel.
   • Using a flat-blade screwdriver release the locking tabs
     Use the General Equipment: Flat Headed Screw Driver

1. Remove the bolts and the pin-type retainer.
   Torque: 36 lb.in (4.1 Nm)

1. Remove the active grille shutter mounting bolts.
   Torque: 159 lb.in (18 Nm)

1. • Remove the pin-type retainer.
   • Pull up to disengage the locating pins along the top of the grille.
   • Pull forward on center of the grill to remove.

Removal

NOTE: Removal steps in this procedure may contain installation details.

1. Remove the radiator grille.
   Refer to: Radiator Grille (501-08 Exterior Trim and Ornamentation, Removal and Installation).

1. NOTE: The number and location of electrical connectors and retainers will vary depending on option content.
   1. Disconnect the turbocharger bypass valve electrical connector.
2. 1. Detach the wiring harness retainers.
3. 1. Disconnect the front bumper harness electrical connector.
4. 1. Disconnect the lower active grille shutter actuator electrical connector and position the front bumper wiring harness aside.

1. If equipped.
   Release the tabs and remove the license plate bracket.

1. If equipped.
   1. Detach the wiring harness retainer.
2. 1. Remove the engine block heater and position the engine block heater wiring harness aside.

1. Raise the vehicle on a hoist.
   Refer to: Jacking and Lifting - Overview (100-02 Jacking and Lifting, Description and Operation).

1. With the help of an assistant.
   Remove the nuts and the front bumper.
   Torque: 76 lb.ft (103 Nm)

 

[jrhoops]

thank you sir, I had the grille of changing the emblem. uncertain if I will do what I am thinking of doing haha

 

[SFD9]

Removed my bumper, did Not have to pull the grill off. Just the trim piece underneath, 2 screws on either side & a bunch of clips.


@Doyouevenboost i see you have ford manuals, can you identify the 4 wires going into my LED fog/drl please?

 

[SFD9]

 

[Doyouevenboost]

Removed my bumper, did Not have to pull the grill off. Just the trim piece underneath, 2 screws on either side & a bunch of clips.


@Doyouevenboost i see you have ford manuals, can you identify the 4 wires going into my LED fog/drl please?

i included the entire headlamp system since its all tied together, and im not sure exactly what you were looking for.

Pin	Circuit	Gauge	Circuit Function	Qualifier
1	CBBA0 (YE-VT)	22	FUSE - 100 OR CIRCUIT BREAKER
2	VLF89 (BU-RD)	20	CTRL MOD. - HEADLAMP # FRONT FOG
3	CLF61 (GY-RD)	22	CTRL MOD. - DAYTIME RUNNING LIGHT LEFT
4	GD129 (BK-YE)	16	GROUND - HEADLAMP PANEL/GOR LEFT

 

[SFD9]

Thanks I think that will help.

I’ve got Rigid LED fog lights to replace the factory ones. The problem is it made the check engine light come on because the DRL circuit is open now. Soooo, I got different Rigid Radiance LED lights with a white backlight, To act as the DRL’s and the lower power center to be the fog lights.

It’s using pin 2&4 now I believe, need to hook the backlight up to pin #3 & hoping it makes the CEL go out.

 

[ESG406]

See attached pdf. I need to remove the indicated part but I can't find instructions in the service manual. I have searched for air deflector & air dam without results. Will appreciate any thoughts anyone might have about what to search for or how to remove it without damage. It is quite cold so I need to be careful with the plastic. If anyone has any experience with this, it would be great to know what type and placement of screws/clips.

 

[KartRacer25]

Let us know how it goes. Its confusing with the "smart" features for DRL and cornering, automatic mode vs manual, etc.
Auto mode only comes on after dark. Also parking light setting.
Ive run manual mode at night to run lower ambers alone in a desert convoy with dust, not so good. Then when you stop n restart I think it kicks back to auto mode by default. LOL
I had similar issues, but let shop do install.
Wired 2 Diode Dynamics ambers into the DRLs.
No errors, but every time I turned the wheel both amber lights came on. LOL
They were tied together and cornering light feature was enabled.
Shop re did it.
They are tied to the center button for DRLs. So I can turn them on off.
I thought I disabled cornering feature but not sure now.
I'll go retest maybe...
May have to get laptop and cable out again.
I have 502A, 5.0, ADD stealth, ACC relocation kit, with badlands 12k synth winch.

 

[Nickelwork87]

Thanks I think that will help.

I’ve got Rigid LED fog lights to replace the factory ones. The problem is it made the check engine light come on because the DRL circuit is open now. Soooo, I got different Rigid Radiance LED lights with a white backlight, To act as the DRL’s and the lower power center to be the fog lights.

It’s using pin 2&4 now I believe, need to hook the backlight up to pin #3 & hoping it makes the CEL go out.

Hey bud did you ever get it figured out I am in the boat

 

[jhelrey]

You do not have to remove the grill to remove the front bumper...

 

[SFD9]

Hey bud did you ever get it figured out I am in the boat

Nope I have had a check engine light on since i removed the bumper when it was weeks old..61k miles now. Adding the back light to pin #3 made the truck stop sending a lighting fault message to my Ford Pass app, so that was a huge plus. That message came every time I drove it. I honestly don’t know if the check engine light is due to pin #1 being an open circuit, or if it’s because the active air dam circuits are all open.

 

[Nickelwork87]

Nope I have had a check engine light on since i removed the bumper when it was weeks old..61k miles now. Adding the back light to pin #3 made the truck stop sending a lighting fault message to my Ford Pass app, so that was a huge plus. That message came every time I drove it. I honestly don’t know if the check engine light is due to pin #1 being an open circuit, or if it’s because the active air dam circuits are all open.

what codes are you getting bud

 

[fordhouston]

jesus christ good thing i paid somebody to install the bumper spacers for me. i don't have the kind of patience to do this at my home lol.

 

[SFD9]

jesus christ good thing i paid somebody to install the bumper spacers for me. i don't have the kind of patience to do this at my home lol.

Bumper spacers?

forgive me I haven’t been keeping up on here much lately. What do spacers do?

In response to what codes? I don’t know, I’ve never actually had a dealership look at it & figure out what the issue was. I just have the check engine light on permanently. I do realize this would drive most guys insane.

More back story from early winter 2022 when I was just done outfitting the truck…. I myself installed the new bumper & a warn winch. I started having dead battery issues if I left the truck sit longer than a day. Took it to the dealer & they had it for a day. Told me to “take it back to whoever put all that stuff on there & have them fix it”

I said that was an unacceptable answer because the winch was actually physically switched off, and the lights were plugged into the factory fog light wire. So it was obvious it was a truck problem. They argued. I installed a battery tracker & app on my phone. It showed a continuous draw after the truck was shut off. Eventually the cause was determined to be a shorted auxiliary cab heat circulation pump. After that was fixed I had zero battery problems.

Point being, at that time when they pulled the codes. There were soooo many. All related to low voltage, associated electrical faults from the dead battery, Failed starts, ect. it was impossible to decipher what was causing the check engine light to be on at that time.

so the truck runs flawlessly. Everything works the way I want it to. And the engine light is on. I don’t even notice it. I get a notification on my app when the oil change is due. Nothing else.
Absolutely love this truck!

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