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The sticker in the door is for tires that came on your vehicle, specifically the TYPE of tire. So if your rig came with P-rated tires, follow that sticker as long as you stay with P-rated tires of the same size. Going to an LT? that sticker goes out the window and trial-and-error becomes your...

I did check, which is why I was hoping someone knew about just the gasket vs. both. I don't want to drop over $5 to buy a new bolt every oil change... hopefully someone knows?

Oh my, this is a big can of worms. LT tires are "light truck", yes. They come in C, D, and E in the most common designations for passenger trucks, and go higher for trailer tires (F, G, H, etc.). Back in the day it related to a ply rating (c had 6 plies, d had 8 plies, and E had 10 plies)...

no it does not. It's a black gasket type, round. it's not one of the old blue styles...

Has anyone figured out the Oil Drain Plug gasket part number? JUST the little rubber o-ring that's nested inside the drain plug flange. I have not; I can only find the entire drain plug... help!

Is the wiring diagram manual worth the purchase, or are most items addressed in the standard manual making the wiring diagram not nearly as useful for most common issues/repairs? thank you!

I did my first at 1250mi with Mobil1 oil and filter (M1-212a), and again at 5,000mi. and again at 10,000. I'll be doing it every 5k miles on mine, regardless of what the Oil life readout tells me. The only issue with changing your oil more is the damage to your pocketbook...

some of that is semantics. The microinverters you speak of are still inverters, they're just stuck on your roof and aggregated in an AC Combiner box elsewhere. I didn't know about the CSS Pro only doing Level 2, but I guess that makes sense. In that case, they may be relying on the Vehicles...

Whew! I work in the Solar Renewables space, and so I'm in the thick of all of this conversation on a daily basis. And yes, I bought a gas F-150 anyways (or because of all of this). Some basics: All batteries that we are referring to, whether car or house, are DC (Direct Current). So is...

Yep, they are. I have them on my 4Runner, and must admit they're quite nice. Totally different ride from stock.

Post Photos!

THANK YOU. And well said. Add to that list, is that fact those lazily glued-on screens in EV's typically take up precious leg room for a guy as large as me. I tried sitting in a Mach-e and my knee consistently hits the edge of their glued-on iPad screen. It's lazy, ugly, and I can't wait...

Technically, "brightness" can't be too high for the test documents that IIHS provides. The visibility demerits assigned are for LACK of visibility, not for an overabundance, based on the shortest light edge at a given distance. I provided a link for you to read that bit below. I believe...

Define "too bright". If they have a "too bright" marking for lights, and a "not bright enough" marking for lights, I'd like to know what their criteria is. And also, I'd like to know how much they're paying Goldilocks to do their headlight testing...

If I recall correctly, it's in the "menu" from the steering wheel controls. go through the options, but I want to say it's under "vehicle" or "maintenance"? You'll find it, start messing with those steering wheel controls until you do. good luck!

Is that gen 3, as in the third gen raptor?

read the other replies. It's addressed. The issue is that they're oriented incorrectly on BOTH sides of the truck!

crossed swords on that one...

ah hell, it's flying incorrectly both sides...

interesting. I want to say that it's just a mirror image of the other side of the truck, but if that's the case, then the Raptor lettering would be backwards too. I wonder when they photoshopped it if the artist just didn't know to change the flag orientation...