Oil Brand Recommendations

[Tizzzo]

Hello everyone, I'm getting ready to do my first oil change on my 5.0L XLT 4x4. I'm at about 1,100 miles right now and just wanted to see what you guys recommended for oil brands? I have ran Amsoil before in the past on my GT500 and Ranger with great success but wanted to see what everyone else is running. Not trying to start an oil thread battle but I've never owned a vehicle with a coyote before and like to run the best since I do the oil changes myself and cost is cheap. I ran motorcraft full synthetic oil before in my shelby and could feel the difference when I switched to Amsoil, it was immediately quieter and felt way more lubricated so I'm wondering if that's also the case with the coyote motor or if any synthetic brand will suffice. Thanks for your input!

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[apMechorse]

I did mine at about 1500 and used Mobil 1 Extended Performance Full Synthetic and a K&N filter. The one with the nut on the end so its easier to remove. The factory filter seems to have been installed by a gorilla, and there wasn't enough room on the sides the fit my oil filter wrench in, so it seemed like a good idea to have another way to remove it available.

 

[Tizzzo]

I saw that comment on another thread here and I was dying at the gorilla part! I will look into mobil 1 for sure, I'm debating on mobil 1, Amsoil, or Pennzoil full synthetic ultra platinum.

 

[apMechorse]

I saw that comment on another thread here and I was dying at the gorilla part! I will look into mobil 1 for sure, I'm debating on mobil 1, Amsoil, or Pennzoil full synthetic ultra platinum.

Yeah, I think I posted that line somewhere else on here as well. ? That guy seriously needs to lay off. You'd think they were never planning on it being removed.

Honestly when I went to pick up the oil and filter I was planning on getting the Pennzoil FS Ultra, but they didn't have the correct weight so I ended up going with the Mobile 1.

 

[Lippy]

I always use the stock filters while my cars are under warranty. The bypass valves are sometimes different for the aftermarket ones. But when I do use aftermarket, it’s always Baldwin or Wix. IMO they’re the best.

 

[Pedaldude]

Hard to believe that one could tell the difference between two oils of the same weight and specs by driving or listening to it.

My guess is that your engine was a little low on oil before the oil change. I still haven’t checked my oil since I got the truck and I have been meaning to for months. The Coyote engines have very well documented oil consumption issues and hopefully that’s fixed with the change in oil weight for 2021.

Oil standards are so well followed that nearly any brand should be sufficient. I usually use Mobil1 since it’s nearly always on sale cheaper than the store brands at one of the many retailers in my city but if I lived somewhere remote without many options, I would go with Mag1 since it is the best deal with free shipping and a coupon from Zoro.com for a well respected oil on those crazy lubriphile oil fetish forums that go into insane depth when discussing engine and gear oils. When I worked at a garage I used Shell because we had 20 gallon drums and it was ‘free’ for personal cars as long as you wrote down how much you used.

Of all my cars, motorcycles and trucks, motor oil has never been an issue. Even on my beaters where I used the leftover oil of any weight and grade from other oil jobs at the garage I worked at where we used quart and 5quart jugs. We would let the leftovers from the ‘empty’ jugs drain into another jug and it’s crazy how much oil must be wasted that way and it adds up quickly.

It’s easy to justify spending a few extra dollars for more expensive oil thinking that it will protect an expensive vehicle but the truth is that you're best off saving that money toward its replacement and getting the cheapest name brand stuff you can get. I also don’t believe in the extended service intervals that some manufacturers recommend, so that goes toward a cheaper oil too.

I plan on using Ford’s filters, since they’re well respected and it’s about the only thing I can think of using my Fordpass points on that I can’t get for a lot less anywhere else.

 

[Tizzzo]

Hard to believe that one could tell the difference between two oils of the same weight and specs by driving or listening to it.

My guess is that your engine was a little low on oil before the oil change. I still haven’t checked my oil since I got the truck and I have been meaning to for months. The Coyote engines have very well documented oil consumption issues and hopefully that’s fixed with the change in oil weight for 2021.

Oil standards are so well followed that nearly any brand should be sufficient. I usually use Mobil1 since it’s nearly always on sale cheaper than the store brands at one of the many retailers in my city but if I lived somewhere remote without many options, I would go with Mag1 since it is the best deal with free shipping and a coupon from Zoro.com for a well respected oil on those crazy lubriphile oil fetish forums that go into insane depth when discussing engine and gear oils. When I worked at a garage I used Shell because we had 20 gallon drums and it was ‘free’ for personal cars as long as you wrote down how much you used.

Of all my cars, motorcycles and trucks, motor oil has never been an issue. Even on my beaters where I used the leftover oil of any weight and grade from other oil jobs at the garage I worked at where we used quart and 5quart jugs. We would let the leftovers from the ‘empty’ jugs drain into another jug and it’s crazy how much oil must be wasted that way and it adds up quickly.

It’s easy to justify spending a few extra dollars for more expensive oil thinking that it will protect an expensive vehicle but the truth is that you're best off saving that money toward its replacement and getting the cheapest name brand stuff you can get. I also don’t believe in the extended service intervals that some manufacturers recommend, so that goes toward a cheaper oil too.

I plan on using Ford’s filters, since they’re well respected and it’s about the only thing I can think of using my Fordpass points on that I can’t get for a lot less anywhere else.

I was the same way before, never cared for brands as long as it was the same weight and full synthetic but I'm telling you that after driving that Shelby daily for 3 years that I am 100 percent sure that Amsoil performs as advertised. I literally felt the difference, not necessarily any horsepower increase or anything like that but the motor was much much quieter, the small idling engine noises (ticks, rattles, etc) were greatly reduced and it just felt way smoother probably due to the lubricity. I had done plenty oil changes before with motorcraft or castrol and checked the oil constantly and it never had it running as smooth as it did when I switched to Amsoil, even after doing fresh oil changes with other brands. Projectfarm has a good youtube video up putting oils of the same weight against each other (Lubricity,thermal breakdown,flow,etc) and Amsoil came out on top. Pennzoil was the runner up.

 

[Tizzzo]

Hard to believe that one could tell the difference between two oils of the same weight and specs by driving or listening to it.

My guess is that your engine was a little low on oil before the oil change. I still haven’t checked my oil since I got the truck and I have been meaning to for months. The Coyote engines have very well documented oil consumption issues and hopefully that’s fixed with the change in oil weight for 2021.

Oil standards are so well followed that nearly any brand should be sufficient. I usually use Mobil1 since it’s nearly always on sale cheaper than the store brands at one of the many retailers in my city but if I lived somewhere remote without many options, I would go with Mag1 since it is the best deal with free shipping and a coupon from Zoro.com for a well respected oil on those crazy lubriphile oil fetish forums that go into insane depth when discussing engine and gear oils. When I worked at a garage I used Shell because we had 20 gallon drums and it was ‘free’ for personal cars as long as you wrote down how much you used.

Of all my cars, motorcycles and trucks, motor oil has never been an issue. Even on my beaters where I used the leftover oil of any weight and grade from other oil jobs at the garage I worked at where we used quart and 5quart jugs. We would let the leftovers from the ‘empty’ jugs drain into another jug and it’s crazy how much oil must be wasted that way and it adds up quickly.

It’s easy to justify spending a few extra dollars for more expensive oil thinking that it will protect an expensive vehicle but the truth is that you're best off saving that money toward its replacement and getting the cheapest name brand stuff you can get. I also don’t believe in the extended service intervals that some manufacturers recommend, so that goes toward a cheaper oil too.

I plan on using Ford’s filters, since they’re well respected and it’s about the only thing I can think of using my Fordpass points on that I can’t get for a lot less anywhere else.

this is the video of the two best oils going head to head.

 

[Pedaldude]

I might have to try it out and see if the motor is any quieter, one thing that is certain. I can say that the Coyote and 5.4 32V in my Lincoln are some of the noisiest motors at idle. So it’s possible that there’s room for improvement, but still hard to believe.

If you do decide on going the same way with your truck, there are free phone apps with Db meter/spectrum analyzers that can confirm any changes. Screenshots or it didn’t happen

 

[Tizzzo]

I might have to try it out and see if the motor is any quieter, one thing that is certain. I can say that the Coyote and 5.4 32V in my Lincoln are some of the noisiest motors at idle. So it’s possible that there’s room for improvement, but still hard to believe.

If you do decide on going the same way with your truck, there are free phone apps with Db meter/spectrum analyzers that can confirm any changes. Screenshots or it didn’t happen

I believe you! That 5.4L is one noisy engine, I heard the coyote was too but surprisingly I haven't noticed it, either that or I've been having too much fun with the Ford pass app remote starting my truck 10 min before I leave to work in the morning. I should skip that one day to hear a cold start in person and check for myself . If I do run Amsoil again I'll for sure do that and post the results here!

 

[Tizzzo]

I was skeptical at first until I tried it, the 5.4 32v is a noisy engine with a lot of vibration, and felt smoother/quieter after I switched brands. I get that its hard to believe lubricity can be something you can feel until you drive it daily and get used to a vehicle and feel the switch for yourself but I felt it. If I'm changing the oil myself why not spend a few extra dollars and go with a better quality oil? Reminds me of a friend that would tell me "oil is oil and gas is gas" but you have cars pinging and knocking when running low quality gas and engines noisy and rattling with crappy oil lol.

 

[Pedaldude]

One thing that anyone relying on the factory oil service monitor and maintenance schedule should keep in mind is that this the requirement by Ford so that your car lasts for the warranty period. The YouTube channel Fordtechmakuloco goes into this in depth.

I can attest that some sparkplug maintenance intervals are way off, even on Hondas, I drove a Civic that was running like crap and new plugs changed that as well as increased the mpg according to the owner, it was 5k miles short of the recommendation for its first spark plug change and it really should have had them 10k miles before I changed them. Same for a lower mileage previous gen. Ford Ranger, it barely ran when I drove it and I was surprised that it ran at all after pulling the plugs, the electrodes were nonexistent and who knows for how long. The computer was logging misfires but not enough for the CEL to turn on and the truck ran so badly that the owner thought there was something wrong with the manual transmission.

Even in my owner’s manual, it says to change the oil at a set interval if you frequently drive in dusty conditions, which is guaranteed in the Southwest. It also says to change the oil every year which is the interval that I have been using more often since I don’t drive very far or often.

 

[Tizzzo]

One thing that anyone relying on the factory oil service monitor and maintenance schedule should keep in mind is that this the requirement by Ford so that your car lasts for the warranty period. The YouTube channel Fordtechmakuloco goes into this in depth.

I can attest that some sparkplug maintenance intervals are way off, even on Hondas, I drove a Civic that was running like crap and new plugs changed that as well as increased the mpg according to the owner, it was 5k miles short of the recommendation for its first spark plug change and it really should have had them 10k miles before I changed them. Same for a lower mileage previous gen. Ford Ranger, it barely ran when I drove it and I was surprised that it ran at all after pulling the plugs, the electrodes were nonexistent and who knows for how long. The computer was logging misfires but not enough for the CEL to turn on and the truck ran so badly that the owner thought there was something wrong with the manual transmission.

Even in my owner’s manual, it says to change the oil at a set interval if you frequently drive in dusty conditions, which is guaranteed in the Southwest. It also says to change the oil every year which is the interval that I have been using more often since I don’t drive very far or often.

Right on the money, I always used ford's maintenance schedule as a (how long I can get away with) timeline instead of my actual maintenance timeline. I grew up helping my dad wrench on cars most weekends whether his or his buddies cars so when I go too long without doing anything to a vehicle I get bored lol. I always perform maintenance before the required interval because why not? I do it myself, its cheap (no labor cost), and I can only benefit from it. My 2001 Ford ranger had 220,000 miles when I sold it and it ran like a champ, I'm hoping I can get the same out of this 5.0L.

 

[Tizzzo]

I have 1,100 miles on my truck and my oil life meter shows 89 percent, at that rate it wants me to go up to 10k miles before its first oil change and there's no way you can pay me to let it run that long on the initial break-in oil

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