"Deep Sleep"

[HammaMan]

Unfortunately your aftermarket parts and upgrades are worth nothing to dealers. Hell some of their guys will even strip parts off and keep them. If you're going to have the new truck parked for a while, might consider ford insure for it. You have a 90 day monitoring window and not having it move much is really good on the metrics during the monitoring period

As for the PB, I've been trying a 'cheap' alternative to a purpose built LFP pack, but it just isn't up to the task at hand. With an 'installed' 2a maintainer that's easily connected you should be able to keep it happy.

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[JJSnell]

Both batteries are connected EXCEPT during a high current cranking event.

Ford's way of saying that the voltage you read on the 12V system is both batteries combined. But when the pcm commands the high amperage ICE starter event, it also opens the battery isolator for the vehicle and protects the electronics of the truck by isolating them to the small battery under the seat.

Ok and does that tool you posted differentiate as to which battery is actually low of the two if in fact one is?

 

[marekjk]

That voltage of 14.5 or 13 when you are driving, isn't the problem.
It's the amount of charging current (amps) that Ford is supplying the battery with. They are incredibly stingy once the 12V battery reaches about 80% SOC. And I do have the Forscan edit set to 95%. So that's not as cut & dry as we might think. (aggravating, because it would be awesome if that setting actually increased the charging current to the degree we would expect)

Below is a snapshot of the 12V battery SOC at 90% (required an external charge a couple of days previous)

Notice that although the alternator (DC/DC converter) was supplying 14.4V, but ZERO charging current! The battery management system sees that SOC and decides that AGM isn't hungry enough to feed it. Lol

Here it is a couple of weeks previously, and with the battery at 75% SOC, it's providing ~6 amps of charging current to the AGM

I would love to hear the explanation, but Ford intentionally keeps the AGM in the ~12.3-12.4V range if you do nothing to intervene.

Ah, I get it. Good explanation!

 

[RickDawgFL]

Had to Google both "BMS" and how to reset it...

Anyone else dumb like me, "Battery Monitoring (system?)"

Reset Steps:
Key\Bush button on
Light beam flash 5x
Press brake 3x
Turn off Key\push button
Turn key\push button back on again....

Yeah, I need an acronym cheat sheet...

 

[marekjk]

That voltage of 14.5 or 13 when you are driving, isn't the problem.
It's the amount of charging current (amps) that Ford is supplying the battery with. They are incredibly stingy once the 12V battery reaches about 80% SOC. And I do have the Forscan edit set to 95%. So that's not as cut & dry as we might think. (aggravating, because it would be awesome if that setting actually increased the charging current to the degree we would expect)

Below is a snapshot of the 12V battery SOC at 90% (required an external charge a couple of days previous)

Notice that although the alternator (DC/DC converter) was supplying 14.4V, but ZERO charging current! The battery management system sees that SOC and decides that AGM isn't hungry enough to feed it. Lol

Here it is a couple of weeks previously, and with the battery at 75% SOC, it's providing ~6 amps of charging current to the AGM

I would love to hear the explanation, but Ford intentionally keeps the AGM in the ~12.3-12.4V range if you do nothing to intervene.

What is the process to edit 12v SOC goal to 95% from 80% in FORSCAN?

 

[Snakebitten]

Ok and does that tool you posted differentiate as to which battery is actually low of the two if in fact one is?

Since the batteries are very rarely "isolated" from each other, 99.9999% of the time the voltage the little Bluetooth monitor is seeing is really both in parallel.

 

[Snakebitten]

What is the process to edit 12v SOC goal to 95% from 80% in FORSCAN?

I honestly don't remember the single line edit, but I can almost guarantee someone is going to come along that documented it.

 

[HammaMan]

Since the batteries are very rarely "isolated" from each other, 99.9999% of the time the voltage the little Bluetooth monitor is seeing is really both in parallel.

Yeah, they're practically never isolated and when they do isolate it happens so fast the little BtBM probably doesn't even refresh fast enough to catch it.

 

[Snakebitten]

Exactly!

 

[Ford Motor Company]

so if we randomly receive this message when driving the vehicle on the daily basis is a sign of battery going bad? can anyone confirm this? so far i've seen it twice (all happened last week) since we took delivery of the truck a month ago, and we have 1300 miles on the odometer as of today

Hi there! I can look into your F-150's error message concern on my end. To get started, could you please send a private message over with the name/location of your local Ford dealer and your F-150’s VIN?

 

[Snakebitten]

Somebody is fixin to get a fresh new battery on the house!

 

[JJSnell]

Somebody is fixin to get a fresh new battery on the house!

LOL, Hey What the heck? Im the OP!?

So back the Batt tool you have...People are saying "My battery is dead or low voltage I may need another battery...."
So how do you tell which is low? And when I get this event on my phone, "Deep Sleep" which battery is causing it? Thats what I meant by does your tool differentiate. I just want to know the source of why its happening....

 

[Snakebitten]

Since the batteries are in parallel, they BOTH are below the threshold that triggers deep sleep. (unless deep sleep was triggered by time, rather than voltage/SOC)

But remember, the auxiliary battery is tiny, by comparison, and is only critical for supporting the non-starter side of the truck (electronics) for a very short moment.

However, I'm not saying that if your AGM is starting to fail the truck that it wouldn't be a good idea to get a fresh auxiliary battery too.
I think I might myself.

 

[JJSnell]

Since the batteries are in parallel, they BOTH are below the threshold that triggers deep sleep. (unless deep sleep was triggered by time, rather than voltage/SOC)

But remember, the auxiliary battery is tiny, by comparison, and is only critical for supporting the non-starter side of the truck (electronics) for a very short moment.

However, I'm not saying that if your AGM is starting to fail the truck that it wouldn't be a good idea to get a fresh auxiliary battery too.
I think I might myself.

Trucks not even a year old yet... \sigh.
I really am contemplating my next truck purchase based on time it needs it takes to be in the shop.
I'm always like, "Hey I need to bring my truck in, it has 'this' problem." So I wait 6 weeks, bring it in and they call me at the end of the day, "So we looked at your truck and it has 'this' problem, we dont have the parts and it will take a week or two to get em."
"Well I told you that was the problem 6 weeks ago. Why didnt you order the parts then?"

I mean really, even if I was wrong in my diag, cant they return the parts if they dont need?

 

[Snakebitten]

I've not needed to visit a dealership service department.
Not for the 2 years I've been driving a Powerboost, nor the 4 years in my previous 3.5 Ecoboost, nor the 2 years in my previous 2.7 Ecoboost.

Been statistically very fortunate?

My 2012 F150, which I still own, DID go in for the 6R80 leadframe issue (Ford reprograms to avoid replacement. Not the best remedy) a couple of years ago.

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