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Kicker upgrade for b&o unleashed?

FrankSJ

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powerboost

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Has anyone added either the Kicker 8" or 10" Hideaway subwoofer to an unleashed B&O? Maybe piggyback the factory sub signal wires and run new power wires for safety.
 

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HammaMan

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I'd be surprised if there's any difference in sound between the factory and those tiny 10" units, and if there is it's not worth the cost vs going a more custom route.

I've got my interior taken apart right now and I'm working on a box for 2 10s behind the seat w/ out having to do anything other than cut the back carpet on the back wall, remove the factory sub and relocate the factory amp.

I'm also replacing the tiny battery with a LFP unit to more than double the reserve 12v battery capacity. I've got the logic sorted as the rear batt floats on start to keep the electronics off of the 12v main bus during starting. I have a contactor from the MME I'm going to use to work in parallel w/ the factory isolator to not throw a code while still retaining the factory aux wiring in addition to a 2ga power cable run to the front. I'm going to tap into the welcome lighting as a source for energizing the LFP that will power the lighting and juice up the AGM under the hood while the lights and/or key are in the on position. The supplemental wiring will isolate w/ the factory isolator which opens only on start, the AGM under the hood will handle all other loads in key off / lights off. The LFP's BMS will turn on power out with both the lights turning on, or the key being in any 'on' position.

The trickiest part is sizing the wiring and using the factory current sensor. I've seen 15.2v peak on the 12v bus, the LFP's BMS will turn off incoming current once an individual cell hits 3.55v. It's pretty interesting how the BMS can both allow energy to be taken from the battery but won't let any in (works on the low side as well, preventing any current from going out while only accepting charging). All variables 100% programable. The aux batt powers twin air compressors and the powered steps with option to connect other 12v accessories w/out adding any strain on the starting battery, instead it will actually charge it every time the lights or key is on, ever so slightly depending on its SOC. The LFP sits around 13.3 volts whereas the AGM rests around 12.7v, that low of a delta only results in about 5a worth of charging, but coming on with the lights and the key, it'll keep the 12v system fully charged regardless of the welcome lighting / door openings for at least 2 weeks based on current variables. We'll see how it goes once it's fully back into regular operation.
 
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Graygoose2021

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Yes the HS10 can be added, buddy of mine just added one to his 2023 Denali with Bose.

The Sounds Good enclosure and KEY5001 is a nice package.
 

Graygoose2021

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Graygoose2021

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and everyone is entitled to their opinion, have no problem with that.
Full sized truck, id do

TRTP, L7DF, or new PTRTP
 

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lb18

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I installed a Kicker 48TRTP102 with an AudioControl amp ACM1300. It made a huge difference for me. The Unleashed sub should have been much better for the additional cost.
 

BILDOZER

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I have used both the kicker hideaway as well as a JBL Basspro on other trucks and can share with confidence that the B&O standard sytem is much better overall and you will be dissapointed with these two additions. My last truck had the hideway and the F150 standard B&O was smoother sounding, more immersive and more well rounded sound. The hideway and basspro are great for upgrading bad stereos with no low frquency sound which the B&O isnt.
 

hitchhiker

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This one just barely fits behind the rear seat on the driver’s side of my crew cab. You will need to cut out a bit of the cardboard panel on the rear wall or you will probably dent the grille. Ask me how I know…

https://www.jlaudio.com/collections...-powerwedge-amplified-subwoofer-systems-93334

It delivers powerful bass and very tight as it’s a sealed enclosure. It won’t shake your mirrors, just like anything that will fit in that space.

I am using a low level signal from one of the Mobridge A2B DACs but you should be able to drive it directly from the high level leads to the stock B&O sub.

(Will start a thread on my audio build soon)
 

HammaMan

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This one just barely fits behind the rear seat on the driver’s side of my crew cab. You will need to cut out a bit of the cardboard panel on the rear wall or you will probably dent the grille. Ask me how I know…

https://www.jlaudio.com/collections...-powerwedge-amplified-subwoofer-systems-93334

It delivers powerful bass and very tight as it’s a sealed enclosure. It won’t shake your mirrors, just like anything that will fit in that space.

I am using a low level signal from one of the Mobridge A2B DACs but you should be able to drive it directly from the high level leads to the stock B&O sub.

(Will start a thread on my audio build soon)
I've got so many writeups to do on mods. Here's a few of the audio upgrade currently in process...
driver door panel
Ford F-150 Kicker upgrade for b&o unleashed? 1675919828746


Driver rear door
Ford F-150 Kicker upgrade for b&o unleashed? 1675919850132


JL C3 tweets in factory position
Ford F-150 Kicker upgrade for b&o unleashed? 1675919883115


Box for 2 JL10TW3 to fit behind driver side rear seat backs in progress. Will be built in cad, going to buy a CNC router and consider building 50 flatpacks for people to self assemble.

Amp is AC D5.1300.

Though I do have a JBL 8 channel DSP amp I'm considering playing with to integrate the factory center for some mid-fill. All of my amps have integrated DSPs. Tapping factory a2b as well.
 

fordhouston

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this current setup in conjunction with the standard B&O system has me satisfied. the setup didn’t break the bank either and the subwoofer can easily be removed at any given moment to allow full potential floor space if needed. my next plans are to change out the door speakers and tweeters for better highs and mids.

Ford F-150 Kicker upgrade for b&o unleashed? 4D3F3F67-51EF-48F5-BAD3-558A93141D54


Ford F-150 Kicker upgrade for b&o unleashed? D497299B-FC03-4529-ACD4-6851771243C6
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